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THE RAMSAY FACE OF MT WHITCOMBE. Slightly built, reserved and with a disarming smile, Guy McKinnon doesn’t give the appearance of being New Zealand’s most active solo climber. He used to work as a museum host, managing to save money for his expedition climbing by living with his parents. Guy now lives in Aoraki...
THE SOUTH FACE OF SABRE PEAK. For nearly two decades the remote south face of Sabre Peak remained free of climbers; none were willing to expend the considerable physical energy needed to reach its base. Making the seven hour trudge up Marian Creek , or coming over the tops via Barrier Peak are both...
THE DONNE WALL OF KARETAI Richard Thomson is one of New Zealand’s true elder statesmen of the Darran Mountains and admits that alpine rock climbing is what he likes most and does best. Partly because the margin of safety relative to the intensity is higher than in more glaciated, less solid areas of the...
THE NORTH BUTTRESS OF MT HOPKINS Paul says he’s not mentally tough enough to match the ‘really top guys,’ but admits that over the years he has notched up a solid reputation for making first ascents in the less obvious corners of the Southern Alps. Not the hardest routes, he says, just a fair...
This information is collected from my two expeditions to the Afghan Hindu Kush Range; the first in 2011, which resulted in a successful ascent of Koh-e-Baba-Tangi (6530m) and the second in 2012 which resulted in an ascent of Koh-e-Rank (approx 6100m). Both were first ascents of their respective routes and second ascents of the...
Shelter From the Storm By Rob Brown, Shaun Barnett and Geoff Spearpiont. Nowhere else in the world has a system of mountain huts as widespread and diverse as New Zealand and this fundamental feature of our backcountry is brilliantly captured in the photography and editorial of “Shelter From the Storm” by Shaun Barnett, Rob...
If there’s a place so remote, so lost, that the seeds of curiosity don’t grow, it is the Wakhan Corridor of North East Afghanistan. Abandoned by government and severed from the rest of the world by geography, politics and ignorance, the people of the Wakhan have no desire to know what’s happening outside the...
In 2011 there was a big national debate in New Zealand on whether to rename the South Ridge of Mt Cook the Hillary Ridge in remembrance of our iconic Sir Ed who’d died the year before. There was a country-wide outpouring of grief at his death, and much discontent when the Queen declined an...
On Sunday 19th June 1966 four young men from Christchurch set off to climb the Otira Face of Mt Rolleston, an alpine route considered technically challenging and arduous for the era, and one the climbers approached with caution. When they hadn’t returned by Monday morning the alarm was raised and a search initiated. Because...
I have owned a Jetboil bivvy stove since 2005, used it primarily on expedition climbs at altitude where weight is an important factor, and mainly for melting snow and boiling water for drinks and de-hi/ instant noodle meals. I recently replaced my old one with a new Jetboil Flash and took this climbing in...
If there’s a place so remote, so lost, that the seeds of curiosity don’t grow, it is the Wakhan Corridor of North East Afghanistan. Abandoned by a nation, severed from the rest of the world by geography, politics and ignorance, the Wakhi people have no desire to know what’s happening outside the small scattering...
Freedom Climbers By Bernadette McDonald After the commercialized palaver and generated news to come from the 2012 Everest season, it’s inspiring to read a different story in Freedom Climbers by Bernadette McDonald. The book tells of the post WW2 achievements of Polish climbers on the world’s highest peaks; climbers who figured amongst the international...
Since the ill-fated Everest guiding season of 1996, there have been numerous books written on the storm that killed eight people on the mountain on May 11, including Kiwi guides Rob Hall and Andy Harris. So my first reaction to Graham Ratcliff’s A Day To Die For was, “Oh no! What more can be...
Fifty-three-year-old mountaineer Pat Deavoll, who grew up on a farm in North Canterbury, has been climbing for more than three decades in the Southern Alps, the Canadian Rockies and Alaska, and the Greater Ranges of Asia. In spite of severe osteoarthritis and two bung knees, her will to take on challenging first ascents remains...
South Ridge By Pat Deavoll In 2011 there was a big national debate in New Zealand on whether to rename the South Ridge of Mt Cook the Hillary Ridge in remembrance of our iconic Sir Ed who’d died the year before. There was a country-wide outpouring of grief at his death, and much discontent...
Wind From a Distant Summit by Pat Deavoll Climbing difficult first ascents in the greater ranges, in alpine style, is generally considered the most committing and demanding form of mountaineering. Those involved in this high-risk pursuit from a small elite, made up of mostly men. This makes Pat Deavoll’s slick and candid memoir unique....
The team of Tim Church, Yvonne Pfluger, Graham Zimmerman and me…have been shortlisted for the 2012 Hillary Expedition Sparc Grants. For a mountain called Kampire Dior (7,100m) in NW Pakistan, up near the Afghan border. KD has been climbed once (about 40 years ago) from the west. We intend to climb it from the...
Capturing Mountains: the life and art of Austen Deans, by Nathalie Brown. Wily Publications, Christchurch, NZ, 2011. Coming from the North Canterbury set of old farming families, it wasn’t uncommon to see paintings by Austen Deans gracing the living rooms of our neighbours. They were almost a status symbol, after all, Austen was a...
