Blog Archives

New Zealand Hindu Kush Expedition (Pakistan) 2014: Langua-tai-Barfi 7017m

August 10, 2014
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New Zealand Hindu Kush Expedition (Pakistan) 2014: Langua-tai-Barfi 7017m

Thankyou To start with I want to thank a number of people and organisations: Firstly, my climbing partner Chris, without whom we wouldn’t have got as high on the mountain as we did. Secondly, Abdur Razaq and Proffessor Karim Baig of Tirich Mir Travel, who provided us with unsurpassed service as our expedition support....

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Into the last week..and things are falling into place…

June 14, 2014
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Into the last week..and things are falling into place…

Its now less than a week before we leave, and things seem to be falling into place! Our visas, which required a letter of permission from the Ministry of Tourism and the Ministry of the Interior, Pakistan, have finally eventuated after several weeks of hard work on the part of Razaq (Tirich Mir Travel)...

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New Zealand Expedition to the High Hindu Kush

May 17, 2014
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New Zealand Expedition to the High Hindu Kush

Its just over a month before Chris Todd and I head off to Pakistan to potentially make the first ascent of the South Face of Langua-tai-Barfi (7016m) (above) and if all goes well, the first ascent of the South West Face of Shakawr (7076m). Both these lie at the head of the Roshgol Glacier...

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Incubus

April 25, 2014
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In a dream I walk on a beach of anthracite, black,slick as night. A broiling sky hangs low across the breakers which flinging foam, chase shoreward with dictated and combative malice. Bleached skeletons of ancient trees stand sentinel, waist deep in the iron sand. Large seabirds of a kind I can’t discern, roll,turn, skim...

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On the trail of Genghis Khan: An epic journey through the land of the Nomads. Tim Cope.

April 25, 2014
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What is it about Australia that it manages to routinely pull epic adventurers out of the bag, even in this day and age? John Muir, Justin Jones and James Castrission, Eric Philips, and now Tim Cope, have all put their mark, or rather their footprint, on the globe in some unique way, defying the...

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Langua-tai-Barfi and proposed route

February 21, 2014
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Langua-tai-Barfi and proposed route

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Dozens Killed in Tajikistan Battle

February 21, 2014
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Government Attacks Onetime Islamist Stronghold, Targeting a Border Official It Accuses of Smuggling KABUL—Heavy fighting erupted in the Tajikistan city of Khorog after central government forces confronted local commanders, with dozens of people reported dead in some of the worst violence in the former Soviet republic since its civil war ended in 1997. The...

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Turn this horse around

February 21, 2014
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Turn this horse around The milk of reason tells the bride, turn this horse around. This bitter nag, with baleful eye, and open sore and backbone spiked. Take rein, and steer this spurious beast, flay its rangy flanks. Trammel chance control, and now, turn this horse again. It promised stable lush with hay, and...

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2014 New Zealand Expedition to the High Hindu Kush, Pakistan

January 24, 2014
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2014 New Zealand Expedition to the High Hindu Kush, Pakistan

Objectives: Unclimbed South Face of Langua-tai-Barfi ( 7071m) Unclimbed SE Face of Shakawr (7016m) Summary Summary The objective of this expedition is to make the double first ascents of the South Face of Langua-tai-Barfi (7071m) and the South East Face of Shakawr (7116m). Both these routes will be tackled from the Roshgol Glacier (Hindu...

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And another one…

January 18, 2014
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And another one…

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First painting in months…

January 17, 2014
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First painting in months…

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Sitting on the roof, staring at a powerpole!

January 9, 2014
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Sitting on the roof, staring at a powerpole!

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Article

December 23, 2013
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PAT DEAVOLL (Born: 12th June, 1959 – Christchurch) Mountaineer and kayaker Outdoor instructor and Journalist Event & Activity Manager for the NZ Alpine Club MacPac CMC Mountaineer of the Year 1999   Pat Deavoll has been one of New Zealand’s elite alpinists for several decades and is considered one of the leading exploratory mountaineers...

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That God made mountain tops

November 15, 2013
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At midnight, snow is patterned glass. Diamond bathroom window glass. Our crampons spike its surface with command. It stirs ambition as the halo of our torches spot the mountain walls. A fissure here, a jag’d rock there, a crevasse, a cornice, a frozen cataract. At dawn the snow reflects the sky and we stand...

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Climber in a storm

November 15, 2013
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The mountain casts a shadow like a net, it’s reach as vast as an ocean. It hauls in the sombre glaciers, subtle pathways, lapping ridges, valleys of complacency. He climbs the mountain into a sky as clear as a pearl, as blue as the tide, but if he were to look he’d see the...

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The visitor

November 15, 2013
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It came in spring with the stealth of a worm, as insidious as mold, as sly as a ferret, slunk out of the ditch and onto the road, sidled up the drive and in thru’ the door, slipped down the hallway and into the bedroom, inched under the bed, settled into a corner to...

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The Mad-Woman of Kunduz

July 13, 2013
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The mad- woman lived in the trees on the outskirts of the village of Kunduz. No one knew the exact day she’d arrived or how she’d got there but the locals thought she’d turned up sometime in early spring. They didn’t notice her at first for the snow was still low on the mountains...

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Everest 1953. The Epic Story of the First Ascent. Mick Conefrey.

June 21, 2013
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Nowadays, climbing Mt Everest has become almost a rite of passage for those who want packaged adventure and can afford it. Who can forget the images of the hundreds of climbers queuing for the summit that inundated the media last May? But put yourself in the place of Hillary and Tenzing and the other...

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Penang (short story)

June 11, 2013
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Penang By Pat Deavoll (3178 wds) The door is as cracked and marbled as old porcelain. In middle of the dusky green expanse is a brass door knob in the shape of a Chinese dragon and above this a knocker, also brass and at least a foot wide. While Bruce lifts the knocker, two...

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Four Aspects of the Compass: Eastern Promise

April 8, 2013
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THE RAMSAY FACE OF MT WHITCOMBE. Slightly built, reserved and with a disarming smile, Guy McKinnon doesn’t give the appearance of being New Zealand’s most active solo climber. He used to work as a museum host, managing to save money for his expedition climbing by living with his parents. Guy now lives in Aoraki...

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Four Aspects of the Compass: Southern Winter

April 8, 2013
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THE SOUTH FACE OF SABRE PEAK. For nearly two decades the remote south face of Sabre Peak remained free of climbers; none were willing to expend the considerable physical energy needed to reach its base. Making the seven hour trudge up Marian Creek , or coming over the tops via Barrier Peak are both...

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Four Aspects of the Compass: Northern Exposure

April 8, 2013
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THE NORTH BUTTRESS OF MT HOPKINS Paul says he’s not mentally tough enough to match the ‘really top guys,’ but admits that over the years he has notched up a solid reputation for making first ascents in the less obvious corners of the Southern Alps. Not the hardest routes, he says, just a fair...

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Brief how-to-do-it to the Afghan Hindu Kush

April 8, 2013
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Brief how-to-do-it to the Afghan Hindu Kush

This information is collected from my two expeditions to the Afghan Hindu Kush Range; the first in 2011, which resulted in a successful ascent of Koh-e-Baba-Tangi (6530m) and the second in 2012 which resulted in an ascent of Koh-e-Rank (approx 6100m). Both were first ascents of their respective routes and second ascents of the...

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Mt Cook from the canal road

March 5, 2013
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Mt Cook from the canal road

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Highcountry winter

March 5, 2013
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Highcountry winter

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Review of Shelter From the Storm

February 19, 2013
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Shelter From the Storm By Rob Brown, Shaun Barnett and Geoff Spearpiont. Nowhere else in the world has a system of mountain huts as widespread and diverse as New Zealand and this fundamental feature of our backcountry is brilliantly captured in the photography and editorial of “Shelter From the Storm” by Shaun Barnett, Rob...

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Darran Mountains

February 12, 2013
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Darran Mountains

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Hawkdun Range, Central Otago

January 27, 2013
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Hawkdun Range, Central Otago

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Craigeburn Range

January 27, 2013
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Craigeburn Range

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Coleridge road.

January 6, 2013
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