Author: patd

Reinventing myself

Giving up something that’s been the driving force in my life for the past 40 years has been a monumental move for me. The writing has been on the wall for the past decade, but it was only after an…

2017 Expedition to Tirich Mir 7708m, Nor’West Pakistan.

I have decided to plan ahead to 2017, and start organising a trip to climb Tirich Mir (7708m), the highest peak in the Hindu Kush, and highest peak in the world outside of the Himalayan/Karakoram chain. Its high, but involves…

2016: Langu-e-Barfi (7011m) to Koh-e-Langar (7076m) traverse

Executive Summary The objective of this expedition is to make a traverse of two 7000m plus peaks in the High Hindu Kush Range. The mountains are: • Koh-e-Langua-e-Barfi (7017m) • Koh-e-Langar (7072m) These mountains lie on the border between Afghanistan…

New Zealand Hindu Kush Expedition (Pakistan) 2014: Langua-tai-Barfi 7017m

Thankyou To start with I want to thank a number of people and organisations: Firstly, my climbing partner Chris, without whom we wouldn’t have got as high on the mountain as we did. Secondly, Abdur Razaq and Proffessor Karim Baig…

Into the last week..and things are falling into place…

Its now less than a week before we leave, and things seem to be falling into place! Our visas, which required a letter of permission from the Ministry of Tourism and the Ministry of the Interior, Pakistan, have finally eventuated…

New Zealand Expedition to the High Hindu Kush

Its just over a month before Chris Todd and I head off to Pakistan to potentially make the first ascent of the South Face of Langua-tai-Barfi (7016m) (above) and if all goes well, the first ascent of the South West…

Incubus

In a dream I walk on a beach of anthracite, black,slick as night. A broiling sky hangs low across the breakers which flinging foam, chase shoreward with dictated and combative malice. Bleached skeletons of ancient trees stand sentinel, waist deep…

Dozens Killed in Tajikistan Battle

Government Attacks Onetime Islamist Stronghold, Targeting a Border Official It Accuses of Smuggling KABUL—Heavy fighting erupted in the Tajikistan city of Khorog after central government forces confronted local commanders, with dozens of people reported dead in some of the worst…

Turn this horse around

Turn this horse around The milk of reason tells the bride, turn this horse around. This bitter nag, with baleful eye, and open sore and backbone spiked. Take rein, and steer this spurious beast, flay its rangy flanks. Trammel chance…

2014 New Zealand Expedition to the High Hindu Kush, Pakistan

Objectives: Unclimbed South Face of Langua-tai-Barfi ( 7071m) Unclimbed SE Face of Shakawr (7016m) Summary Summary The objective of this expedition is to make the double first ascents of the South Face of Langua-tai-Barfi (7071m) and the South East Face…

Article

PAT DEAVOLL (Born: 12th June, 1959 – Christchurch) Mountaineer and kayaker Outdoor instructor and Journalist Event & Activity Manager for the NZ Alpine Club MacPac CMC Mountaineer of the Year 1999   Pat Deavoll has been one of New Zealand’s…

That God made mountain tops

At midnight, snow is patterned glass. Diamond bathroom window glass. Our crampons spike its surface with command. It stirs ambition as the halo of our torches spot the mountain walls. A fissure here, a jag’d rock there, a crevasse, a…

Climber in a storm

The mountain casts a shadow like a net, it’s reach as vast as an ocean. It hauls in the sombre glaciers, subtle pathways, lapping ridges, valleys of complacency. He climbs the mountain into a sky as clear as a pearl,…

The visitor

It came in spring with the stealth of a worm, as insidious as mold, as sly as a ferret, slunk out of the ditch and onto the road, sidled up the drive and in thru’ the door, slipped down the…

The Mad-Woman of Kunduz

The mad- woman lived in the trees on the outskirts of the village of Kunduz. No one knew the exact day she’d arrived or how she’d got there but the locals thought she’d turned up sometime in early spring. They…

Everest 1953. The Epic Story of the First Ascent. Mick Conefrey.

Nowadays, climbing Mt Everest has become almost a rite of passage for those who want packaged adventure and can afford it. Who can forget the images of the hundreds of climbers queuing for the summit that inundated the media last…

Penang (short story)

Penang By Pat Deavoll (3178 wds) The door is as cracked and marbled as old porcelain. In middle of the dusky green expanse is a brass door knob in the shape of a Chinese dragon and above this a knocker,…

Four Aspects of the Compass: Eastern Promise

THE RAMSAY FACE OF MT WHITCOMBE. Slightly built, reserved and with a disarming smile, Guy McKinnon doesn’t give the appearance of being New Zealand’s most active solo climber. He used to work as a museum host, managing to save money…

Four Aspects of the Compass: Southern Winter

THE SOUTH FACE OF SABRE PEAK. For nearly two decades the remote south face of Sabre Peak remained free of climbers; none were willing to expend the considerable physical energy needed to reach its base. Making the seven hour trudge…

Four Aspects of the Compass: Northern Exposure

THE NORTH BUTTRESS OF MT HOPKINS Paul says he’s not mentally tough enough to match the ‘really top guys,’ but admits that over the years he has notched up a solid reputation for making first ascents in the less obvious…

Brief how-to-do-it to the Afghan Hindu Kush

This information is collected from my two expeditions to the Afghan Hindu Kush Range; the first in 2011, which resulted in a successful ascent of Koh-e-Baba-Tangi (6530m) and the second in 2012 which resulted in an ascent of Koh-e-Rank (approx…

Review of Shelter From the Storm

Shelter From the Storm By Rob Brown, Shaun Barnett and Geoff Spearpiont. Nowhere else in the world has a system of mountain huts as widespread and diverse as New Zealand and this fundamental feature of our backcountry is brilliantly captured…