Author: patd

The countdown is on……and things are falling into place!

Only two weeks until we leave for Afghanistan and things are finally, FINALLY… falling into place! Our passports made it back from Canberra with their Afghan visas on Monday and the next day Bill and I were off to the…

An invite to the Banff Mountain Festival

Top Kiwi Mountaineer invited to prestigious mountain fest Monday, 11 June 2012, 3:32 pm Press Release: NZ Alpine Club 11th June 2012 Top Kiwi Mountaineer invited to prestigious mountain festival Kiwi Alpinist and Mountaineer, Pat Deavoll, has been asked to…

Only six weeks to go……Rohazon Zom

Only six weeks to go before we leave for Afghanistan and things are starting to heat up! We are running short on time to obtain the three visas we need- China, Tajikistan and Afghanistan. For five weeks our passports languished…

Review of WFADS by Penelope Todd of Rosa Mira Books

A review from author Penelope Todd, of Rosa Mira Books One woman, many mountains It strikes me, writing this, what a flimsy vessel a book is for recording the plethora of exploits Pat Deavoll has put herself through over the…

2012 Easter in the Godley

Easter started perfectly. Stunning weather forecast, great objective and a solid climbing partner in my sister Christine. We were off to climb Mt D’Archiac, a lovely mountain in the head of the Godley Glacier. I had climbed it two or…

New reviews of Wind from a Distant Summit…..

Review by Louise Thornley for the Federated Mountain Clubs Bulletin. Number 197. Taking a well-earned breather from her 35 year climbing career elite alpinist Pat Deavoll has lingered long enough at ground level to write an autobiography. It’s a truly…

2012 New Zealand Expedition to the Wakhan Corridor.

Off to Afghanistan again in 2012! Yipee! Our objective is Rahozon Zom (6535m), a mountain which lies on the Afghan/ Pakistan border and has had one ascent in 1969 by a team of Austrians via the Chitral Valley in Pakitan.…

‘ A Day to Die For’ Graham Ratcliff

Since the ill-fated Everest guiding season of 1996, there have been numerous books written on the storm that killed eight people on the mountain on May 11, including Kiwi guides Rob Hall and Andy Harris. So my first reaction to…

South (Hillary) Ridge Of (Aoraki) Mt Cook at New Year

A couple of years ago there was a big national debate in New Zealand whether to rename the South Ridge of Mt Cook ( now called Aoraki Mt Cook) the Hillary Ridge, in remembrance of our icon Sir Ed who…

Climbing overseas in the 2000’s

There’s no doubt the standard of technical mixed climbing in New Zealand has been boosted recently by the dedicated efforts of the Remarkables aficionada. It’s good to see this previously disregarded medium (ie. steep, rotten rock glued together with a…

2011: Afghanistan Adventure: Koh-e-Baba-Tangi (6515m)

Article from The Press Forty-eight hours supervised incarceration in a military compound in Western China leaves one with plenty of time for contemplation, and that’s just what my sister Christine and I did while awaiting deportation back to New Zealand…

2011:Packing for Koh-e-Baba-Tangi: five days to go!

Only five days to go before we leave for our Koh-e-Baba-Tangi expedition! We are busy packing, endlessly discussing what we can and cant take dependent on our limited baggage allowance, what we can get away without and what we can…

Review of Lowa Expedition 6000 RD PLUS

About two years ago I realised my Scarpa Vegas were beginning to wear out. The soles were rubber slivers of slippery-ness and the liners, which once kept my feet warm at 6500, were tatty old sox. Hence the enlightenment, ‘I…

2011: Funny goings on leading up to Afghanistan

There’s been a couple of troubling things happen recently that have a vague connection to my upcoming trip to Afghanistan. The first is the Greg Mortenson exposé. Greg was something of a cult hero to many, including myself, due to…

2011 February 22: The Christchurch Earthquake

Tuesday a week ago I left work at around 12.30pm to go to the gym, as I do most days. I was driving when a friend called me to meet her for lunch in the seaside suburb of Sumner. My…

2011: An upcoming expedition for July this year

2010 New Zealand Women’s Mountaineering Expedition to the Wakhan Corridor, Afghanistan Patricia Deavoll and Christine Byrch To make the first ascent of the North West Ridge of Koh-e-Baba-Tangi (6516m) in the Wakhan Corridor Hindu Kush Range,Northern Afghanistan Objective: Koh-e-Baba Tangi…

Abandoning the sinking ship

At 4.35am last Saturday the city I’ve called home for the past thirty years was hurtled into wakefulness by a 7.4 earthquake. On the Richter scale, this is the same strength as the earthquake that flattened Haiti, just weeks ago.…

Research- finding a peak

First things first: a few things to consider that could narrow you search. 1. What is your skill/ experience level? It?s very important to be honest with yourself about where you?re at and try and equate your skill level with…

Alpine Guides Technical Manual: a resource for Alpinists (2009 edition).

Despite a rather uninspiring front cover, this book is a very tidy little package and bound to stand any budding mountaineer in good stead. Alpine Guides (Aoraki) Ltd have revised their technical manual several times since the first edition came…

Pat’s Climbing Story

Pat began her mountaineering career in 1976. Highlights prior to 1980 included ascents of all NZ?s ten thousand-foot peaks and a three-month south to north traverse of the Southern Alps. In the early eighties she did repeats of the classic…

Berghaus Yeti Gaitors

This iconic product from Berghaus has been around in various incarnations for many years- I got my first pair in 1984. There are numerous other old codgers who swear by them; in fact I?ve heard say they are the best…

1999-2001: Canadian Ice Climbing

To be completed…. Pat Deavoll on the crux pitch on Sea of Vapours, Mt Rundle. Climbing Firedrake, in the Jasper area. Climbing O La Tabernac, Ice Fields Parkway. O La Tabernac, Ice Fields Parkway Pat on the crux pitch of…

Pat’s Climbing and Outdoors Resume

Outdoor career summary Mountaineering 2012: Successful first ascent of Koh-e-Rank (6200m) with Maryrose Fowlie in the Wakhan Corridor of Afghanistan. 2011: Successful first ascent of the NW Ridge of Koh-e-Baba-Tangi (6600m) in the Wakhan Corridor of Afghanistan with sister Chris…

Black Diamond Expedition Pole review

I go through poles like water! I either snap them between rocks on the moraine, or break them whacking my crampons to clear the snow. So it?s with some relief I?ve discovered the Black Diamond ?Expedition? poles. These three section…

One of the Happy Ones

Its early July, and the snows arrived in the South Island. Daylight hours are short and its cold!Everyone with an outdoor bent is happily gearing up for an early ski season- everyone bar a small bunch of Kiwi mountaineers. These…