Author: patd

Research- finding a peak

First things first: a few things to consider that could narrow you search. 1. What is your skill/ experience level? It?s very important to be honest with yourself about where you?re at and try and equate your skill level with…

Alpine Guides Technical Manual: a resource for Alpinists (2009 edition).

Despite a rather uninspiring front cover, this book is a very tidy little package and bound to stand any budding mountaineer in good stead. Alpine Guides (Aoraki) Ltd have revised their technical manual several times since the first edition came…

Pat’s Climbing Story

Pat began her mountaineering career in 1976. Highlights prior to 1980 included ascents of all NZ?s ten thousand-foot peaks and a three-month south to north traverse of the Southern Alps. In the early eighties she did repeats of the classic…

Berghaus Yeti Gaitors

This iconic product from Berghaus has been around in various incarnations for many years- I got my first pair in 1984. There are numerous other old codgers who swear by them; in fact I?ve heard say they are the best…

1999-2001: Canadian Ice Climbing

To be completed…. Pat Deavoll on the crux pitch on Sea of Vapours, Mt Rundle. Climbing Firedrake, in the Jasper area. Climbing O La Tabernac, Ice Fields Parkway. O La Tabernac, Ice Fields Parkway Pat on the crux pitch of…

Pat’s Climbing and Outdoors Resume

Outdoor career summary Mountaineering 2012: Successful first ascent of Koh-e-Rank (6200m) with Maryrose Fowlie in the Wakhan Corridor of Afghanistan. 2011: Successful first ascent of the NW Ridge of Koh-e-Baba-Tangi (6600m) in the Wakhan Corridor of Afghanistan with sister Chris…

Black Diamond Expedition Pole review

I go through poles like water! I either snap them between rocks on the moraine, or break them whacking my crampons to clear the snow. So it?s with some relief I?ve discovered the Black Diamond ?Expedition? poles. These three section…

One of the Happy Ones

Its early July, and the snows arrived in the South Island. Daylight hours are short and its cold!Everyone with an outdoor bent is happily gearing up for an early ski season- everyone bar a small bunch of Kiwi mountaineers. These…

2009: Tecnology is on my side!

I had the first inkling something was wrong about seven years ago. My knees and ankles started to hurt walking down the hard ice of the Hooker glacier, and I didn?t want to jump crevasses, preferring to sit on my…

2008: Bekka Brakai Chhok update- Alpinist Newswire

By Lindsay Griffin; August 11. Italians Herve Barmasse and Simone Moro have made the first ascent of Beka Brakai Chhok (6940m), a high and imposing snow and ice peak in the Karakoram’s Batura Group. The ascent and descent were completed…

2008:Beka Brakai Chhok- second time round

Trying to justify expedition climbing in the Greater Ranges to a non climber is sometimes hard, but to justify travelling half the way around the world to fail for the second time on a chosen peak can be particularly torrid.…

2007: First ascent of Miandi Peak(6400m); attempt on the east ridge of Kharchakund, Gangotri region, Uttaranchal, India.

Account of the expedition for the New Zealand Climber magazine On October 5th Bruce Norman from Scotland and Pat Deavoll made what may be a first ascent of a 6400m peak in the Garwhal region of the Indian Himalayas. Pat…

2006: First ascent of Haizi Shan, Western Sichuan, China

It was deja vu: the same stream galloping by the main street, the same houses stacked one-on-one up the rocky hillside, the same visiting monks in their burgundy robes. The town of Kanding, gateway to Tibet, had changed little over…

2005: First ascent of Xiashe, Western Sichuan, China

I. Finding Paradise With hundreds of unclimbed mountains awaiting ascent and countless valleys to be walked up, China can be viewed as an explorer?s and climber?s paradise. Access to these areas has been approved only since 1980, when Deng Xiao-Ping…

Review of Black Diamond ‘Venom’ tool

A long snow route with a few pitches of ice like, for instance, the east ridge of Cook, is the hardest type of climbing to choose an appropriate tool for. You can either have a good ice tool that?s hopeless…

Black Diamond First Light Tent Review

This compact two-person, four season tent weighs 1.5 kilograms and must be one of the lightest on the market?.. and is a real gem! I?ve used it on three overseas mountaineering expeditions, each with different weather conditions, and its stood…