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2010

Mountain Hardwear ‘Alcove’ Belay Jacket (by Malcolm Bass)

November 4, 2010
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Mountain Hardwear ‘Alcove’ Belay Jacket (by Malcolm Bass)

The insulated belay jacket principle is now well established for alpine climbing above the snow line. I no longer carry a shell jacket unless rain is likely. If precipitation is going to fall as snow, then I wear an insulated, windproof, highly breathable mid layer that will keep me warm when moving, and carry...

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2010: The first acent of the West Face of Vasuki Parbat…

November 2, 2010
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2010: The first acent of the West Face of Vasuki Parbat…

It’s always difficult to swallow a Himalayan expedition failure, even more so if you’ve voluntarily retreated off a route when others have gone on to summit. Add to the failure the months of effort that have gone into just getting to the Himalayas – the endless grant applications for funding, the bureaucratic wrangling over...

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Abandoning the sinking ship

September 9, 2010
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Abandoning the sinking ship

At 4.35am last Saturday the city I’ve called home for the past thirty years was hurtled into wakefulness by a 7.4 earthquake. On the Richter scale, this is the same strength as the earthquake that flattened Haiti, just weeks ago. New Zealand is used to earthquakes, as it sits on a mesh of fault...

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2010: A small change of plan! The West Face of Vasuki Parbat

June 25, 2010
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2010: A small change of plan! The West Face of Vasuki Parbat

The West Face of Vasuki Parbat( photo by Mick Fowler) India is mad! Not bedlam mad, or bloodthirsty mad, or nuclear holocaust mad?but mad in a riotous, raucous, blindingly colourful way that distinguishes it from any other nation on earth. Nowhere else do you find such contrast, such anomaly between religion, ethnicity, lifestyle or...

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2010: 'Full Value' article for Alpinist Magazine (edition 30)

April 11, 2010
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March 2009: emails bounce back and forth across the climbing world, each with a ricochet of questions: Did you hear the Taliban have invaded the Swat Valley? Are you still going to Pakistan? What do you think? Will we be able to get into the country? Out of the country? Are the media blowing...

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2010: Looking forward to Jankuth

March 12, 2010
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2010: Looking forward to Jankuth

It?s a typical late summer?s afternoon in the hills above Christchurch ( that?s the South Island of New Zealand) ? the sky is blue, a brisk nor? easterly whisks in off the sea, the waves and distant mountains sparkle. I?m doing my typical later summer afternoon thing- cragging with friends at one of the...

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