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Gear

Discussion about gear

Jetboil Flash Review

January 2, 2013
By

I have owned a Jetboil bivvy stove since 2005, used it primarily on expedition climbs at altitude where weight is an important factor, and mainly for melting snow and boiling water for drinks and de-hi/ instant noodle meals. I recently replaced my old one with a new Jetboil Flash and took this climbing in...

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Review of Lowa Expedition 6000 RD PLUS

June 27, 2011
By

About two years ago I realised my Scarpa Vegas were beginning to wear out. The soles were rubber slivers of slippery-ness and the liners, which once kept my feet warm at 6500, were tatty old sox. Hence the enlightenment, ‘I need new boots.’ I began hunting and came to the conclusion that short of...

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Black Diamond “Sabretooth” stainless steel crampon review

February 4, 2011
By

Black Diamond have recently changed the construction of their core range of crampons (Cyborg, Sabretooth, Serac and Contact) from carbon steel to stainless steel, and this has been a good move. I’ve been using a pair of stainless steel Sabretooths for about a year (before that I had the old version) and have been...

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Mountain Hardwear ‘Alcove’ Belay Jacket (by Malcolm Bass)

November 4, 2010
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Mountain Hardwear ‘Alcove’ Belay Jacket (by Malcolm Bass)

The insulated belay jacket principle is now well established for alpine climbing above the snow line. I no longer carry a shell jacket unless rain is likely. If precipitation is going to fall as snow, then I wear an insulated, windproof, highly breathable mid layer that will keep me warm when moving, and carry...

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Alpine Guides Technical Manual: a resource for Alpinists (2009 edition).

July 8, 2010
By

Despite a rather uninspiring front cover, this book is a very tidy little package and bound to stand any budding mountaineer in good stead. Alpine Guides (Aoraki) Ltd have revised their technical manual several times since the first edition came out in 1995 and each reincarnation has been an improvement on the last. This...

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Berghaus Yeti Gaitors

June 14, 2010
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Berghaus Yeti Gaitors

This iconic product from Berghaus has been around in various incarnations for many years- I got my first pair in 1984. There are numerous other old codgers who swear by them; in fact I?ve heard say they are the best product Berghaus ever made. Essentially the gaiter provides a gore-tex cover for your foot...

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Black Diamond Expedition Pole review

September 29, 2009
By

I go through poles like water! I either snap them between rocks on the moraine, or break them whacking my crampons to clear the snow. So it?s with some relief I?ve discovered the Black Diamond ?Expedition? poles. These three section adjustable poles are of all-aluminium construction, and although quite heavy (at 629gms), they are...

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Review of Black Diamond ‘Venom’ tool

May 7, 2008
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Review of Black Diamond ‘Venom’ tool

A long snow route with a few pitches of ice like, for instance, the east ridge of Cook, is the hardest type of climbing to choose an appropriate tool for. You can either have a good ice tool that?s hopeless for self arresting and shaft belays, is heavier than you want and hard to...

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Black Diamond First Light Tent Review

May 1, 2008
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Black Diamond First Light Tent Review

This compact two-person, four season tent weighs 1.5 kilograms and must be one of the lightest on the market?.. and is a real gem! I?ve used it on three overseas mountaineering expeditions, each with different weather conditions, and its stood up to the test each time. In India last October it dealt with three...

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