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Overseas Climbing

Absence Makes the Heart Grow Fonder (updated)

January 2, 2013
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Absence Makes the Heart Grow Fonder (updated)

If there’s a place so remote, so lost, that the seeds of curiosity don’t grow, it is the Wakhan Corridor of North East Afghanistan. Abandoned by government and severed from the rest of the world by geography, politics and ignorance, the people of the Wakhan have no desire to know what’s happening outside the...

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Afghanistan: absence makes the heart grow fonder

December 11, 2012
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Afghanistan: absence makes the heart grow fonder

If there’s a place so remote, so lost, that the seeds of curiosity don’t grow, it is the Wakhan Corridor of North East Afghanistan. Abandoned by a nation, severed from the rest of the world by geography, politics and ignorance, the Wakhi people have no desire to know what’s happening outside the small scattering...

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Afghanistan 2012: second time round…

August 21, 2012
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Afghanistan 2012: second time round…

Our 2012 climbing trip to Afghanistan had all the excitement and drama of last years successful expedition to climb Koh-e-Baba-Tangi, if not more! But it did get off to a rocky start! After months of planning and work, our fourth member (and my climbing partner) saw fit to pull out three days before out...

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The countdown is on……and things are falling into place!

June 21, 2012
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The countdown is on……and things are falling into place!

Only two weeks until we leave for Afghanistan and things are finally, FINALLY… falling into place! Our passports made it back from Canberra with their Afghan visas on Monday and the next day Bill and I were off to the Chinese Consulate here in Christchurch. The Chinese visas will be ready next Thursday…a week...

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Only six weeks to go……Rohazon Zom

May 23, 2012
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Only six weeks to go……Rohazon Zom

Only six weeks to go before we leave for Afghanistan and things are starting to heat up! We are running short on time to obtain the three visas we need- China, Tajikistan and Afghanistan. For five weeks our passports languished in Belgium Customs while we tried to encourage the Tajikistan Embassy to supply the...

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2012 New Zealand Expedition to the Wakhan Corridor.

March 1, 2012
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2012 New Zealand Expedition to the Wakhan Corridor.

Off to Afghanistan again in 2012! Yipee! Our objective is Rahozon Zom (6535m), a mountain which lies on the Afghan/ Pakistan border and has had one ascent in 1969 by a team of Austrians via the Chitral Valley in Pakitan. It has never been climbed from the Afghan side. We have no information of...

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2011: Afghanistan Adventure: Koh-e-Baba-Tangi (6515m)

August 29, 2011
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2011: Afghanistan Adventure: Koh-e-Baba-Tangi (6515m)

Article from The Press Forty-eight hours supervised incarceration in a military compound in Western China leaves one with plenty of time for contemplation, and that’s just what my sister Christine and I did while awaiting deportation back to New Zealand in late August this year. We were on our way home from Afghanistan, after...

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2011:Packing for Koh-e-Baba-Tangi: five days to go!

July 10, 2011
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2011:Packing for Koh-e-Baba-Tangi: five days to go!

Only five days to go before we leave for our Koh-e-Baba-Tangi expedition! We are busy packing, endlessly discussing what we can and cant take dependent on our limited baggage allowance, what we can get away without and what we can possibly get a-hold of in either Tajikistan or Afghanistan. Emails fly back and forward...

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2011: Funny goings on leading up to Afghanistan

May 4, 2011
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2011: Funny goings on leading up to Afghanistan

There’s been a couple of troubling things happen recently that have a vague connection to my upcoming trip to Afghanistan. The first is the Greg Mortenson exposé. Greg was something of a cult hero to many, including myself, due to his work as the Director of the Central Asia Institute building schools in rural...

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2011: An upcoming expedition for July this year

January 15, 2011
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2011: An upcoming expedition for July this year

2010 New Zealand Women’s Mountaineering Expedition to the Wakhan Corridor, Afghanistan Patricia Deavoll and Christine Byrch To make the first ascent of the North West Ridge of Koh-e-Baba-Tangi (6516m) in the Wakhan Corridor Hindu Kush Range,Northern Afghanistan Objective: Koh-e-Baba Tangi is in the upper Kezget Valley, at the far end of the Wakhan Corridor...

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2010: The first acent of the West Face of Vasuki Parbat…

November 2, 2010
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2010: The first acent of the West Face of Vasuki Parbat…

It’s always difficult to swallow a Himalayan expedition failure, even more so if you’ve voluntarily retreated off a route when others have gone on to summit. Add to the failure the months of effort that have gone into just getting to the Himalayas – the endless grant applications for funding, the bureaucratic wrangling over...

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2010: A small change of plan! The West Face of Vasuki Parbat

June 25, 2010
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2010: A small change of plan! The West Face of Vasuki Parbat

The West Face of Vasuki Parbat( photo by Mick Fowler) India is mad! Not bedlam mad, or bloodthirsty mad, or nuclear holocaust mad?but mad in a riotous, raucous, blindingly colourful way that distinguishes it from any other nation on earth. Nowhere else do you find such contrast, such anomaly between religion, ethnicity, lifestyle or...

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2003: Alaska: "Alaskan Dreams." By Marty Beare

April 20, 2010
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2003: Alaska: "Alaskan Dreams." By Marty Beare

Here comes the next one! I had been peering into the eerie gloom above us that served for a stormy Alaskan night in mid-May. The buffeting wind, the swirling snowflakes, and the occasional freight-train roar of nearby avalanches lent camouflage to our surroundings, but couldn?t completely disguise the ululating signature of another spindrift avalanche....

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2010: Looking forward to Jankuth

March 12, 2010
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2010: Looking forward to Jankuth

It?s a typical late summer?s afternoon in the hills above Christchurch ( that?s the South Island of New Zealand) ? the sky is blue, a brisk nor? easterly whisks in off the sea, the waves and distant mountains sparkle. I?m doing my typical later summer afternoon thing- cragging with friends at one of the...

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One of the Happy Ones

September 29, 2009
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One of the Happy Ones

Its early July, and the snows arrived in the South Island. Daylight hours are short and its cold!Everyone with an outdoor bent is happily gearing up for an early ski season- everyone bar a small bunch of Kiwi mountaineers. These lucky few are about to exchange the sub zero temperatures of the south for...

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2009 First Ascent of Karim Sar (6180m)

July 28, 2009
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2009 First Ascent of Karim Sar (6180m)

I first caught sight of Karim Sar (6180m) in 2007. My friend Lydia and I were on top of a small, previously unclimbed peak between the Baltar and Toltar Glaciers in the Northern Areas of Pakistan, with our new Italian friends, Giampi and Lorenzo Corona. The peak was a consolation prize for both teams...

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2008: Bekka Brakai Chhok update- Alpinist Newswire

March 26, 2009
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By Lindsay Griffin; August 11. Italians Herve Barmasse and Simone Moro have made the first ascent of Beka Brakai Chhok (6940m), a high and imposing snow and ice peak in the Karakoram’s Batura Group. The ascent and descent were completed in an impressive 43-hour alpine-style attempt with very minimal bivouac equipment, the pair overcoming...

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2008:Beka Brakai Chhok- second time round

March 26, 2009
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2008:Beka Brakai Chhok- second time round

Trying to justify expedition climbing in the Greater Ranges to a non climber is sometimes hard, but to justify travelling half the way around the world to fail for the second time on a chosen peak can be particularly torrid. Throw in the fact you?ve been climbing in country renown as a stronghold for...

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2007: First ascent of Miandi Peak(6400m); attempt on the east ridge of Kharchakund, Gangotri region, Uttaranchal, India.

May 21, 2008
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Account of the expedition for the New Zealand Climber magazine On October 5th Bruce Norman from Scotland and Pat Deavoll made what may be a first ascent of a 6400m peak in the Garwhal region of the Indian Himalayas. Pat writes?.The ascent was the culmination of an ?organic? process which began earlier in the...

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2004: First ascent(unsuccessful) of Jankuth, Uttaranchal, Gangotri Glacier, India.

May 18, 2008
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2004: First ascent(unsuccessful) of Jankuth, Uttaranchal, Gangotri Glacier, India.

Trip Log 13th ? 14th September By the 13th Sept 2004 all expedition members had arrived in Dehli, where we stayed at the YWCA. A representative of our agent ?Himalayan Run and Trek? (HR&T) met us on the 13th September, and confirmed our schedule and arrangements for the expedition. On the 14th September Malcolm...

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2007: First ascent of Beka Brakkai Chokk (unsuccessful) and first ascent of Wahine,Baltar Glacier, Karakoram Ranges, Northern Pakistan.

May 18, 2008
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2007: First ascent of Beka Brakkai Chokk (unsuccessful) and first ascent of Wahine,Baltar Glacier, Karakoram Ranges, Northern Pakistan.

? Pakistan – Islamic republic, hotchpotch of federally administered states and tribal areas, land of vast physical contrast. Its an intriguing? place to visit post 9/11. My friend Lydia ?and I discovered this on a trip in July 2007, the original focus of which? was to be the first to climb a 7000m peak...

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2006: First ascent of Haizi Shan, Western Sichuan, China

May 18, 2008
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2006: First ascent of Haizi Shan, Western Sichuan, China

It was deja vu: the same stream galloping by the main street, the same houses stacked one-on-one up the rocky hillside, the same visiting monks in their burgundy robes. The town of Kanding, gateway to Tibet, had changed little over the twelve months since my friend Karen and I passed through it on our...

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2005: First ascent of Xiashe, Western Sichuan, China

May 18, 2008
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2005: First ascent of Xiashe, Western Sichuan, China

I. Finding Paradise With hundreds of unclimbed mountains awaiting ascent and countless valleys to be walked up, China can be viewed as an explorer?s and climber?s paradise. Access to these areas has been approved only since 1980, when Deng Xiao-Ping implemented an open-door policy, which allows adventurers and climbers access to the unknown Greater...

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