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THE RAMSAY FACE OF MT WHITCOMBE. Slightly built, reserved and with a disarming smile, Guy McKinnon doesn’t give the appearance of being New Zealand’s most active solo climber. He used to work as a museum host, managing to save money for his expedition climbing by living with his parents. Guy now lives in Aoraki...
THE SOUTH FACE OF SABRE PEAK. For nearly two decades the remote south face of Sabre Peak remained free of climbers; none were willing to expend the considerable physical energy needed to reach its base. Making the seven hour trudge up Marian Creek , or coming over the tops via Barrier Peak are both...
THE DONNE WALL OF KARETAI Richard Thomson is one of New Zealand’s true elder statesmen of the Darran Mountains and admits that alpine rock climbing is what he likes most and does best. Partly because the margin of safety relative to the intensity is higher than in more glaciated, less solid areas of the...
THE NORTH BUTTRESS OF MT HOPKINS Paul says he’s not mentally tough enough to match the ‘really top guys,’ but admits that over the years he has notched up a solid reputation for making first ascents in the less obvious corners of the Southern Alps. Not the hardest routes, he says, just a fair...
This information is collected from my two expeditions to the Afghan Hindu Kush Range; the first in 2011, which resulted in a successful ascent of Koh-e-Baba-Tangi (6530m) and the second in 2012 which resulted in an ascent of Koh-e-Rank (approx 6100m). Both were first ascents of their respective routes and second ascents of the...
I have owned a Jetboil bivvy stove since 2005, used it primarily on expedition climbs at altitude where weight is an important factor, and mainly for melting snow and boiling water for drinks and de-hi/ instant noodle meals. I recently replaced my old one with a new Jetboil Flash and took this climbing in...
Fifty-three-year-old mountaineer Pat Deavoll, who grew up on a farm in North Canterbury, has been climbing for more than three decades in the Southern Alps, the Canadian Rockies and Alaska, and the Greater Ranges of Asia. In spite of severe osteoarthritis and two bung knees, her will to take on challenging first ascents remains...
South Ridge By Pat Deavoll In 2011 there was a big national debate in New Zealand on whether to rename the South Ridge of Mt Cook the Hillary Ridge in remembrance of our iconic Sir Ed who’d died the year before. There was a country-wide outpouring of grief at his death, and much discontent...
The team of Tim Church, Yvonne Pfluger, Graham Zimmerman and me…have been shortlisted for the 2012 Hillary Expedition Sparc Grants. For a mountain called Kampire Dior (7,100m) in NW Pakistan, up near the Afghan border. KD has been climbed once (about 40 years ago) from the west. We intend to climb it from the...
By John McCone Christchurch Press Pat Deavoll looks at me as if she is talking to a simpleton. “A lot of the time mountaineering is just sheer misery,” she says. “It’s really hard work.” What, you expected it to be some kind of fun? Hanging upside down on a thread from an ice face...
Monday, 11 June 2012, 3:32 pm Press Release: NZ Alpine Club 11th June 2012 Kiwi Alpinist and Mountaineer, Pat Deavoll, has been asked to speak at the prestigious Banff Mountain Film & Book Festival, in November. Pat’s autobiographical book “Wind from a Distant Summit” has gained plaudits and praise both in New Zealand and...
Pat began her mountaineering career in 1976. Highlights prior to 1980 included ascents of all NZ?s ten thousand-foot peaks and a three-month south to north traverse of the Southern Alps. In the early eighties she did repeats of the classic grade 5 test pieces, the ?Central Gully? on the South Face of Douglas and...
Outdoor career summary Mountaineering 2012: Successful first ascent of Koh-e-Rank (6200m) with Maryrose Fowlie in the Wakhan Corridor of Afghanistan. 2011: Successful first ascent of the NW Ridge of Koh-e-Baba-Tangi (6600m) in the Wakhan Corridor of Afghanistan with sister Chris Byrch. 2010: Unsucessful attempt at the first ascent of the West Face of Vasuki...
