Pre 2010

2003: Alaska: "Alaskan Dreams." By Marty Beare

April 20, 2010
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2003: Alaska: "Alaskan Dreams." By Marty Beare

Here comes the next one! I had been peering into the eerie gloom above us that served for a stormy Alaskan night in mid-May. The buffeting wind, the swirling snowflakes, and the occasional freight-train roar of nearby avalanches lent camouflage to our surroundings, but couldn?t completely disguise the ululating signature of another spindrift avalanche....

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One of the Happy Ones

September 29, 2009
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One of the Happy Ones

Its early July, and the snows arrived in the South Island. Daylight hours are short and its cold!Everyone with an outdoor bent is happily gearing up for an early ski season- everyone bar a small bunch of Kiwi mountaineers. These lucky few are about to exchange the sub zero temperatures of the south for...

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2009 First Ascent of Karim Sar (6180m)

July 28, 2009
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2009 First Ascent of Karim Sar (6180m)

I first caught sight of Karim Sar (6180m) in 2007. My friend Lydia and I were on top of a small, previously unclimbed peak between the Baltar and Toltar Glaciers in the Northern Areas of Pakistan, with our new Italian friends, Giampi and Lorenzo Corona. The peak was a consolation prize for both teams...

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2009: Tecnology is on my side!

March 26, 2009
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2009: Tecnology is on my side!

I had the first inkling something was wrong about seven years ago. My knees and ankles started to hurt walking down the hard ice of the Hooker glacier, and I didn?t want to jump crevasses, preferring to sit on my backside and slide. But this is what happens when you hit middle age, I...

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2008: Bekka Brakai Chhok update- Alpinist Newswire

March 26, 2009
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By Lindsay Griffin; August 11. Italians Herve Barmasse and Simone Moro have made the first ascent of Beka Brakai Chhok (6940m), a high and imposing snow and ice peak in the Karakoram’s Batura Group. The ascent and descent were completed in an impressive 43-hour alpine-style attempt with very minimal bivouac equipment, the pair overcoming...

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2008:Beka Brakai Chhok- second time round

March 26, 2009
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2008:Beka Brakai Chhok- second time round

Trying to justify expedition climbing in the Greater Ranges to a non climber is sometimes hard, but to justify travelling half the way around the world to fail for the second time on a chosen peak can be particularly torrid. Throw in the fact you?ve been climbing in country renown as a stronghold for...

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2007: First ascent of Miandi Peak(6400m); attempt on the east ridge of Kharchakund, Gangotri region, Uttaranchal, India.

May 21, 2008
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Account of the expedition for the New Zealand Climber magazine On October 5th Bruce Norman from Scotland and Pat Deavoll made what may be a first ascent of a 6400m peak in the Garwhal region of the Indian Himalayas. Pat writes?.The ascent was the culmination of an ?organic? process which began earlier in the...

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2004: First ascent(unsuccessful) of Jankuth, Uttaranchal, Gangotri Glacier, India.

May 18, 2008
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2004: First ascent(unsuccessful) of Jankuth, Uttaranchal, Gangotri Glacier, India.

Trip Log 13th ? 14th September By the 13th Sept 2004 all expedition members had arrived in Dehli, where we stayed at the YWCA. A representative of our agent ?Himalayan Run and Trek? (HR&T) met us on the 13th September, and confirmed our schedule and arrangements for the expedition. On the 14th September Malcolm...

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2007: First ascent of Beka Brakkai Chokk (unsuccessful) and first ascent of Wahine,Baltar Glacier, Karakoram Ranges, Northern Pakistan.

May 18, 2008
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2007: First ascent of Beka Brakkai Chokk (unsuccessful) and first ascent of Wahine,Baltar Glacier, Karakoram Ranges, Northern Pakistan.

? Pakistan – Islamic republic, hotchpotch of federally administered states and tribal areas, land of vast physical contrast. Its an intriguing? place to visit post 9/11. My friend Lydia ?and I discovered this on a trip in July 2007, the original focus of which? was to be the first to climb a 7000m peak...

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2006: First ascent of Haizi Shan, Western Sichuan, China

May 18, 2008
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2006: First ascent of Haizi Shan, Western Sichuan, China

It was deja vu: the same stream galloping by the main street, the same houses stacked one-on-one up the rocky hillside, the same visiting monks in their burgundy robes. The town of Kanding, gateway to Tibet, had changed little over the twelve months since my friend Karen and I passed through it on our...

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2005: First ascent of Xiashe, Western Sichuan, China

May 18, 2008
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2005: First ascent of Xiashe, Western Sichuan, China

I. Finding Paradise With hundreds of unclimbed mountains awaiting ascent and countless valleys to be walked up, China can be viewed as an explorer?s and climber?s paradise. Access to these areas has been approved only since 1980, when Deng Xiao-Ping implemented an open-door policy, which allows adventurers and climbers access to the unknown Greater...

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