New Zealand Expedition to the High Hindu Kush

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Its just over a month before Chris Todd and I head off to Pakistan to potentially make the first ascent of the South Face of Langua-tai-Barfi (7016m) (above) and if all goes well, the first ascent of the South West Face of Shakawr (7076m). Both these lie at the head of the Roshgol Glacier on the Pakistan/ Afghan border. The head of the Roshgol has never been explored by climbers…or anyone, as far as we can tell.

Our plans are going well- all we need now is final clearance from the Pakistan Ministry of Tourism and the Ministry of the Interior to enter this NW corner of Pakistan which has only recently been reopened to tourists since 9/11 and the Taliban infiltration of the area.

We wont be taking a satellite phone with us, or blogging or putting stuff on Facebook. There is a slight chance we might pick up a Tajik network from the summit of Langua-tai-Barfi, and in the eventuality we get there, will try and make a couple of phone calls.

Many thanks to our sponsors:
Earth Sea Sky: for supplying us with some fabulous clothing
The Mount Everest Foundation: for a UK2000 pound grant.
WL Gore: for a US$4500 Shipton Tilman Award
The New Zealand Alpine Club: for a NZ$1200 grant.
Southern Approach: for subsidising our Black Diamond hardwear.

Thanks also to David Cary and Maryjane Walker who are coming with us to share the costs, and potentially climb some stuff of their own.

Our itinerary is this….

Date Activity
June 20 Leave NZ
June 22 Arrive Islamabad/ Shopping
June 23 Drive to Chitral
June 24 Drive to Zondrangram 2560m.
June 25 Acclimatization day and organize porters
June 26 Walk to Duru 3650m
June 27 Walk to Kotgaz 4300m. Basecamp.
June 28 Acclimatize and climb
June 29 Acclimatize and climb
June 30 Acclimatize and climb
July 1 Acclimatize and climb
July 2 Acclimatize and climb
July 3 Acclimatize and climb
July 4 Acclimatize and climb
July 5 Acclimatize and climb
July 6 Acclimatize and climb
July 7 Acclimatize and climb
July 8 Acclimatize and climb
July 9 Acclimatize and climb
July 10 Acclimatize and climb
July 11 Acclimatize and climb
July 12 Acclimatize and climb
July 13 Acclimatize and climb
July 14 Acclimatize and climb
July 15 Acclimatize and climb
July 16 Acclimatize and climb
July 17 Acclimatize and climb
July 18 Acclimatize and climb
July 19 Acclimatize and climb
July 20 Base camp and packing up
July 21 Walk to Zondrangram.
July 22 Drive to Chitral
July 23 Day in Chitral sightseeing.
July 24 Drive to Islamabad.
July 25 Day in Islamabad
July 26 Depart Islamabad early am.
July 27 Arr home

Shakawr and Langua-tai-Barfi and the unexplored upper reaches of the Roshgol Glacier
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The summit slopes of Langua-tai-Barfi
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Langua-tai-Barfi from our potential basecamp site.
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Udren Zom (7000mplus) and the SE slopes of Shakawr
Udren Zom and SE Face of Shakawr